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May 29, 2006

Traveling with Pets

Filed under: General — DrMark @ 5:55 pm

Planning and preparation are necessary when traveling with family pets. Consider whether your pet is comfortable when traveling. Some animals, like some people, function better in familiar surroundings. A carsick animal can make a trip miserable for everyone! Some ill or physically impaired dogs and cats cannot withstand the rigors of travel. If this is the case, discuss options such as using a reliable pet-sitter or a clean, well-managed boarding facility with your veterinarian.
Find out in advance if you pet is welcome in hotels, motels, parks, and campgrounds. Always check whether pets are allowed or kennel facilities are available. If the pet must be left alone in a hotel room, place a “Do Not Disturb” sign on the door and inform the maid and the front desk. Consider bringing along a portable kennel for use in hotel rooms or the homes of friends or relatives who are not comfortable with your pet loose when no one is home.
A few general tips apply whether you travel by car or plane. Be sure your pet is properly identified with a current tag and/or a microchip. Grooming (bathing, combing, trimming nails) before a trip, plus having its favorite food, toy(s), and dishes available will make your pet more comfortable. Have both proof of rabies vaccination and a current health certificate with you when crossing state or international borders.
Before undertaking any trip, consult your veterinarian to be sure that all required vaccinations are up-to-date and to receive a health certificate within ten days of travel.
Travel by Air
Air travel is of most concern to pet owners. The airlines sometimes update their regulations on pet travel including restrictions on breeds and size. Check with your airline well in advance for their current regulations. Many of the major airlines now allow cats and dogs less than 15 pounds to travel in pet-designed carry-on luggage that will fit under the seat. Federal regulations require that pets be at least 8 weeks old and weaned at least 5 days before flying. Always try to book a nonstop, midweek flight and avoid plane changes whenever possible. During warm weather periods, choose early morning or late evening flights. In colder months, choose midday flights. Do not be shy about insisting that an addendum  accompanies the required health certificate when traveling by air. Reconfirm your flight arrangements the day before you leave to ensure there have been no unexpected flight changes. Arrive at the airport early, exercise your pet, personally place it in its crate, and pick up the animal promptly upon arrival at your destination. When boarding the plane, let the flight attendant know that your pet is in the cargo hold.
Transport crates, available from most airlines or pet shops, must:
Be large enough to allow the animal to stand (without touching the top of the cage), turn around, and lie down.
Be strong and free of interior protrusions, with handle or grips.
Have a leak proof bottom that is covered with plenty of absorbent material.
Be appropriately and clearly labeled. Include your name, home address; home phone number, and destination contact information, as well as a designation of Live Animals, with arrows indicating the crate’s upright position. In addition, carry your pet’s photo and health information with you on the plane for easy identification in the event the cage label is lost.
Be ventilated on opposite sides with exterior rims and knobs so that airflow is not impeded.
Before leaving on your trip, take the time to accustom your pet to the crate in which he will be traveling.
Ask your veterinarian for specific feeding instructions. For your pet’s comfort, air travel on an almost empty stomach is usually recommended. The age and size of your pet, time and distance of the flight, and your pet’s regular dietary routine will be considered when feeding recommendations are made. It is recommended that you not give tranquilizers to your pet when traveling by air unless it has not had time to become accustomed to the crate and is very anxious.
Travel by Car
If your pet is not accustomed to car travel, take it for a few short rides before your trip so it will feel confident that a car outing does not necessarily mean a trip to the veterinarian or an unpleasant destination. Cats should always be confined to a cage or in a cat carrier to allow them to feel secure and prevent them from crawling under your feet while you are driving.
A dog that must ride in a truck bed should be confined in a protective kennel that is fastened to the truck bed. Dogs riding in a car should not ride in the passenger seat if it is equipped with an airbag. Your dog should be in a secure harness or sturdy carrier to avoid injury should you make a sudden turn or stop. Pet harnesses attach to the seatbelt and safely keep your dog in one place. Accustom your dog to a seatbelt harness by attaching a leash and taking your dog for short walks while wearing it. Offer your dog a treat and praise at the end of the walk to associate a positive experience with wearing the harness.
Stick to your regular feeding routine and give the main meal at the end of the day or when you reach your destination. Feeding dry food will be more convenient, assuming your pet readily consumes it. Dispose of unused canned food unless it can be refrigerated. Take along a plastic jug of cold water in case other reliable water sources are not available. Give small portions of food and water and plan to stop every two hours for exercise. Remember to include a leash with your pet’s traveling supplies. If your dog is has a problem with carsickness, your veterinarian can prescribe medication that will help the dog feel comfortable during a long car trip.
Pets should not be allowed to ride with their heads outside car windows. Particles of dirt or other debris can enter the eyes, ears, and nose, causing injury or infection. If you must leave your pet in a parked car, don’t leave him for more than 5 minutes without checking on him or her. Be sure to lock all doors, park in a shady area, and open windows wide enough to provide ventilation without enabling your pet to jump out or get its head caught. Well-trained dogs have been known to panic and chew up valuable upholstery when panicked by being left alone in a car! Be aware of weather conditions. You should never leave your pet in a parked car when the temperature and/or humidity are high or when temperatures are near or below freezing.
Camping With Pets
Travel to country settings with your pet presents its own challenges. Skunks, raccoons, porcupines, snakes, and other wildlife can bite or otherwise injure your pet. Keep your pet on a leash. Be considerate of other campers. Be sure to ask your veterinarian about flea, tick and heartworm prevention before you leave.
Additional Pet Travel and Health Tips
When traveling by car, pack a simple pet first-aid kit that includes assorted bandages, antiseptic cream, Benadryl tablets or liquid, an antidiarrheal medication that is safe for pets (ask your veterinarian to suggest a product and dosages), gauze squares, and the phone numbers of your veterinarian, a national poison control hotline, and a 24-hour emergency veterinary hospital
In addition to a standard identification tag (which should be labeled with your name, home address and phone number), your pet’s collar should include a travel tag with information on where you are staying while away from home. Should your pet become lost, this will allow you to be contacted locally.
Perform a daily “health check” on your pet when away from home. In unfamiliar surroundings, your pet’s appetite, energy, and disposition may change. Watch for unusual discharges from the nose and eyes, excessive scratching or biting of any body part, fleas or ticks, abnormal elimination, or excessive water consumption. Visit a local veterinarian if you are concerned about any physical or behavioral changes.

May 13, 2006

West Nile Virus

Filed under: General — DrMark @ 1:31 pm

West Nile Virus has arrived in Georgia, after arriving in New York in 1999. It was 1st identified in Uganda in 1937. It is a mosquito-transmitted disease that can cause flu-like symptoms in people and rarely, can cause a fatal swelling of the brain (encephalitis) in people, horses, and birds. People-people or animal-people transmission does not appear to be a factor in this disease. Signs of the disease include fever, depression, incoordination, muscle weakness or spasms, seizures or paralysis.

Experts report that less than 1% of mosquitoes carry this virus, and when infected, less than 1% of people will die of the disease. Fortunately for dogs and cats, rarely have any been found to have developed clinical disease at all after being infected in the U.S. The few that have had clinical disease and exposure to the virus had compromised immune systems. About 8% of dogs in the New York area of the 1st outbreak were found to have been exposed and had developed antibodies against the virus, though none developed any illness.

Precautions for all to take against this disease are to remove breeding areas for mosquitoes: standing water in old cans, rain gutters, discarded tires, drip areas of air conditioners, birdbaths and pet water bowls. Replacing birdbath water at least weekly and cleaning/refilling pet water bowls daily should minimize mosquitoes.

For people: Avoid the outdoors @ dawn/dusk; use DEET containing repellents with less than 30% DEET; in children use <10%; avoid use in infants.

For pets: Do NOT use DEET products on pets! If you want to minimize contact with mosquitos keep dogs and cats indoors during dawn and dusk; The ONLY SAFE AND EFFECTIVE repellent is FRESHLY applied pyrethrin 0.15% applied ONE to TWO TIMES DAILY. It comes in sprays or wipe-on gels. We carry “Pet Guard” gel, which is meant for ear tips and other small areas that the pet cannot lick off. Pyrethrins’ disadvantage in the spray form is the strong odor it has, which definitely breaks down the human-animal bond! Spot-on products such as FrontlinePlus, Advantage, and over the counter permethrin or phenothrin spot-ons will kill mosquitoes but cannot repel all mosquitoes on the frequency they are labeled for (once a month.) Clinical studies on permethrin products show incomplete mosquito repellency for 1-2 weeks after application. Fortunately, it does NOT seem to matter that products have marginal mosquito repellence, as pets are known to be highly resistant to the virus!

WHAT NOT TO DO:
DO NOT use permethrin or DEET containing products on cats, they are very toxic to cats! DEET can also be toxic to dogs as well.

DO NOT use over the counter products “off-label” i.e., more frequent or higher dosage.
Do not waste your time (or the look of your pets’ fur) by applying SkinSo Soft. It has been clinically tested to repel fleas for only 1-3 hours on cats; however, no mosquito repellency or safety trials have been conducted on pets. Do not use over the counter so called holistic or natural remedies (other than natural pyrethrin products) as they have not had independent safety studies performed.

May 6, 2006

Zoonosis

Filed under: General — DrMark @ 11:30 pm

Zoonsis is the term used to describe infections that are transmitted from animals to humans. Hookworms and roundworms are commonly found in the southeast in pets and in unfortunate humans.
Hookworms
Cats and dogs contract hookworms by ingesting infected larvae in the soil. They can also get certain hookworms through nursing their mother, and from the placenta in unborn puppies.
Hookworms attach to an animal’s intestinal lining and suck its blood potentially causing: diarrhea, anemia, weight loss, weakness and death.
Hookworm eggs pass from an animal’s body through its feces and hatch into larvae.
Humans may pick up the larvae when walking barefoot on infected soil, (this is one reason dogs are banned from public beaches) potentially causing:
Lesion-like markings under the skin (cutaneous larva migrans) sometimes called Plumbers itch. Damage to vital internal organs from swelling (visceral larva migrans) causing painful bloating, cramping, and blockages in the digestive system (eosinophilic enteritis).
An estimated 20% of the world’s human population is infected with hookworms.
Roundworms are the most common intestinal parasite of dogs, having an estimated prevalence of 25% to 75%.
Lifecycle: Eggs hatch into larvae in an animal’s small intestine after being ingested. Puppies and kittens also contract these through nursing their mother and puppies through the placenta before birth. The larva migrate to the liver, then the lungs and are coughed up and swallowed. The larvae mature into adults in the small intestine. Larva cause a pot-bellied appearance and poor growth in puppies. Adult roundworms pass out of an animal in its feces. Adult female roundworms can produce up to 100,000 eggs a day.
In the United States there are an estimated 10,000 cases of human roundworm infections each year. These infections may cause: Damage to vital internal organs from swelling (visceral larva migrans). Inflammation and/or scarring to the retina, producing permanent partial blindness (ocular larva migrans)
Treatment
Human treatment involves antiparasitic drugs, usually in combination with anti-inflammatory drugs. Ocular larva migrans require greater measures to lessen eye damage.
Prevention
Clean your dogs’ living area often and properly dispose of your pets’ feces.
Have your pets regularly checked by your veterinarian for the presence of worms.
Keep your dog on a monthly oral preventive medication all year. These treat and control zoonotic parasites, such as hookworms and roundworms, as well as heartworms. HeartGard Plus, Interceptor, and Sentinel are the best products to use for zoonosis control! Avoid going barefoot where dogs and cats may have defecated, especially sandy soils. Wash you and your childrens’ hands before eating, especially when camping or at the beach and public parks.


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