The Use of Punishment for Behavior Modification in Animals

American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior
(For full text and references go to: www.AVSABonline.org)

Punishment (e.g.choke chains, pinch collars, and electronic collars) should not be used as a first-line or early-use treatment for behavior problems. This is due to the potential adverse effects which include but are not limited to: inhibition of learning, increased fear-related and aggressive behaviors, and injury to animals and people interacting with animals.

Training should focus on reinforcing desired behaviors, removing the reinforcer for inappropriate behaviors, and addressing the emotional state and environmental conditions driving the undesirable behavior. This approach promotes a better understanding of the pet’s behavior and better awareness of how humans may have inadvertently contributed to the development of the undesirable behavior. Punishment should only be used when the above approach has failed despite an adequate effort as part of a larger training or behavior modification program that incorporates reinforcement of appropriate behaviors and works to change the underlying cause of the problem behavior.

Both positive reinforcement and punishment require significant skill, effort, and awareness on the owner’s part. Both must be applied as the animal is performing the target behavior or within one second of the behavior to be most effective. Additionally, both work best when applied every time the behavior occurs so that the animal is not inadvertently rewarded for undesirable behavior during the modification process. If punishment is added to a modification plan, it should only be used if the owner has first demonstrated
reasonable ability and consistency at rewarding appropriate behaviors and removing the reward for bad behavior. If punishment is suggested as part of a complete behavior modification plan, owners should not begin using it until they have ensured that the person helping them is able to articulate the major adverse effects of punishment, judge when these effects are occurring over the short term and long term, and can explain how they will reverse the adverse effects if they occur.

Guidelines on the Use of Punishment for Dealing with Behavior Problems in Animals

Punishment, or the use of aversives, force, coercion, or physical corrections in order to change an animal’s behavior is commonly used by the general pet owner and by many dog trainers. Some punishments are seemingly innocuous, such as squirting a cat with water when it jumps on a counter or shouting “no” when your pet misbehaves. Other punishments, such as jerking a choke chain or pinch collar to stop a dog from pulling, throwing a dog down on its back in an alpha roll when it nips, tightening a collar around a dog’s neck and cutting off its air supply until it submits, or using an electronic collar to stop a dog from barking are more severe.

Punishment is frequently a first-line or an early-use tool by both the general public and traditional dog trainers. While punishment can be very effective in some specific contexts depending on the individual animal, it can be associated with many serious adverse effects. These adverse effects can put the safety of the pet and the person administering the punishment at risk. Because of these safety risks, people recommending these techniques are taking a liability risk. Thus, just as anti-cancer drugs can be highly effective in treating specific diseases in individuals but can cause serious side-effects in those same individuals or when used inappropriately, punishment is fraught with difficulties.

The adverse effects of punishment and the difficulties in administering punishment effectively have been well documented, especially in the early 1960s when such experiments were still allowed. For instance, if the punishment is not strong enough, the animal may habituate or get used to it, so that the owner needs to escalate the intensity. On the other hand, when the punishment is more intense, it can cause physical injury.
For instance, electronic anti-bark collars can cause burn marks on dogs. Choke chains can damage the trachea, increase intraocular pressure in dogs thus potentially worsening or contributing to glaucoma in susceptible breeds, cause sudden collapse from non-cardiogenic pulmonary edema (water in the lungs) due to temporary upper airway obstruction, and cause nerve damage. The risk of damage is greater when the choke chain sits high on the dog’s neck.

Even when punishment seems mild, in order to be effective it often must elicit a strong fear response, and this fear response can generalize to things that sound or look similar to the punishment. Punishment has also been shown to elicit aggressive behavior in many species of animals. Thus, using punishment can put the person administering it or any person near the animal at risk of being bitten or attacked.

Punishment can suppress aggressive and fearful behavior when used effectively, but it may not change the underlying cause of the behavior. For instance, if the animal behaves aggressively due to fear, then the use of force to stop the fearful reactions will make the animal more fearful while at the same time suppressing or masking the outward signs of fear; (e.g., a threat display/growling). As a result, if the animal faces a situation where it is extremely fearful, it may suddenly act with heightened aggression and with fewer warning signs. In other words, it may now attack more aggressively or with no warning, making it much more dangerous.

Perhaps one of the most compelling reasons to use punishment sparingly is that punishment fails to address the fact that the bad behavior is occurring because it has somehow been reinforced-either intentionally or unintentionally. That is, owners tend to punish bad behaviors some of the time while inadvertently rewarding these same behaviors at other times. In this way, they accidentally set their pets up to receive punishment repeatedly by sometimes unintentionally rewarding the bad behavior, which is how the behavior was learned in the first place. This inconsistency is confusing to the animal and can cause frustration or anxiety. Punishment also fails to tell the animal what it should be performing instead. Without an alternative appropriate behavior the animal may have no option but to perform the undesired behavior. A more appropriate approach to problem solving is to determine what is reinforcing the undesirable behavior, remove that reward, and reinforce an alternate desirable behavior instead. For instance, dogs jump to greet people in order to get their attention. Owners usually provide attention by talking or yelling, pushing them down, or otherwise touching them. A better solution would be to remove attention by standing silently and completely still and then to immediately reward with attention or treats once the dog sits. This learning-based approach leads to a better understanding of our pets and consequently to a better human-pet relationship.

The standard of care for veterinarians specializing in behavior is that punishment is not to be used as a first-line or early-use treatment for behavior problems. Consequently, the AVSAB urges that veterinarians in general practice follow suit. Additionally punishment should only be used when animal owners are made aware of the possible adverse effects. The AVSAB recommends that owners working with trainers who use punishment as a form of behavior modification in animals choose only those trainers who, without prompting:

1) Can and do articulate the most serious adverse effects associated with punishment

2) Are capable of judging when these adverse effects are occurring over the short and/or long term

3) Can explain how they would attempt to reverse any adverse effects if or when they occur.

The standard of care for veterinarians specializing in behavior is that punishment is not used as a first-line or early-use treatment for behavior problems.

Definitions

For the purpose of Position Statement and Guidelines on the Use of Punishment for Dealing with Animal Behavior Problems, we have defined punishment as the use of force, coercion, or aversives to modify behavior because this is what the general public understands punishment to be. The scientific definition of punishment is slightly different. The scientific definitions are important because pet product companies using punishment often incorrectly call it negative reinforcement in order to avoid the negative connotation of the word “punishment.”

Punishment is anything that decreases the likelihood a behavior will occur again. Reinforcement is anything that increases the likelihood a behavior will occur again. Both punishment and reinforcement can either be positive or negative, meaning they can have something added or removed.

Positive reinforcement: by adding something the animal wants, you increase the likelihood the behavior will occur again. For instance, if a cat approaches your house and you put food out for it, it’s more likely to visit your house again.

Negative reinforcement: by removing something aversive, you increase the likelihood a behavior will occur again. For instance, traditional trainers may teach dogs to fetch using a “force retrieve” method. In this method, the handler says “fetch” and then pinches the dog’s ear until it yelps. As soon as the dog opens its mouth to yelp, the handler puts a wooden dumbbell in the mouth and stops the pinch. By doing so, he increases the likelihood that the dog will open its mouth and grab the dumbbell when he says “fetch” the next time. Note that the goal of this training is to teach the dog to grab the dumbbell.

Positive punishment: by adding something the animal dislikes or finds aversive, you decrease the likelihood the behavior will occur again. For instance, a common method for teaching dogs to stop jumping is to knee the dog in the chest when it jumps on you. Doing so will decrease the likelihood the dog will jump again. The goal of the technique is to stop a behavior from occurring, whereas the goal of negative reinforcement is to increase a behavior. Another example of positive punishment is the use of ultrasonic trainers to stop dogs from barking. When the dog barks, the device emits an ultrasonic tone that is theoretically loud enough to disturb the dog, so the dog stops barking.

Negative punishment: by removing something the dog wants, you decrease the likelihood that behavior will occur again. For instance, if your cat meows for attention, removing your attention until the cat is quiet will decrease the likelihood that she will continue meowing to get your attention. Or, if your dog jumps on you to greet you, standing quietly and completely still, so it’s clear you are ignoring him, will decrease the jumping behavior.

Positive Punishment and Negative Reinforcement Involve Aversives

Of these four categories, both positive punishment and negative reinforcement fall under what the public thinks of as punishment. These are the two categories that involve the use of aversives, force, coercion, or physical corrections to modify behavior.
What’s the difference between the two?
Many companies refer to their products as negative reinforcement products when they are actually punishment products because their goal is to stop a behavior by adding something the animal dislikes. For instance, ultrasonic anti-bark devices are punishment devices because their goal is to stop barking. Whether a technique is punishment or reinforcement depends on whether the predominant goal of the technique is to stop a behavior (punishment) or to increase it reinforcement). In the case of negative reinforcement, it’s important that the aversive should stop as soon as the animal starts behaving appropriately.
Veterinary Behaviorists and Ph.D. Behaviorists Focus on Positive Reinforcement combined with Negative Punishment.

Of these four categories, the two most used by veterinary behaviorists and Ph.D. behaviorists are negative punishment combined with positive reinforcement. That is, they remove the rewards for the undesirable behavior and then reward the appropriate behavior. For instance, if a dog greets by jumping, they remove their attention (negative punishment) when the dog jumps, and when the dog sits or stands calmly, they reward the dog (positive reinforcement).
Position Statement

Adverse Effects of Punishment

Punishment can be effective in specific cases, but it must be used carefully due to the difficulties of performing it properly compared to positive reinforcement and due to its potential adverse effects. The following is a description of the difficulties and adverse effects that one should be aware of when using punishment (aversives).

1. It’s difficult to time punishment correctly. In order for the animal to understand what it is doing wrong, the punishment must be timed to occur: while the behavior is occurring, within 1 second, or at least before the next behavior occurs.

2. Punishment can strengthen the undesired behavior. In order for punishment
to affect a lasting change, it should occur every time the undesirable behavior occurs. If the animal is not punished every time, then the times it is not being punished, it is actually receiving a reward. Additionally these rewards are on a variable rate of reinforcement (i.e. inconsistent punishment), which may actually strengthen the undesirable behavior. Variable rate of reinforcement is a powerful reinforcement schedule that is used to maintain behaviors trained with positive reinforcement The animals know the reward will occur eventually, but since they don’t know which time the reward will come, they keep performing the behavior with the expectation of an eventual reward. Thus the animals become like gamblers playing the slot machines.

3. The intensity of the punishment must be high enough. For punishment to be effective, it must be strong enough the first time. If the intensity is not high enough, the animal may get used to it (habituate), so that the same intensity no longer works. Then, the owner must escalate the intensity in order for the punishment to be effective. No matter when it is administered, punishment may cause physical harm or fear when used at the required intensity for learning to occur.

4. Punishment may cause physical harm when administered at high intensity.
Many punishments can cause physical harm to the animal. Choke chains can
damage the trachea, especially in the many dogs with collapsing tracheas or hypoplastic tracheas. They can also occasionally cause Horner’s syndrome (damage to the nerve to the eye). Some dogs, especially brachycephalic breeds, have developed sudden life-threatening pulmonary edema, possibly due to the sudden upper airway obstruction leading to a rapid swing in intrathoracic pressure. And dogs prone to glaucoma may be more susceptible to the disorder since pressure by collars around the neck can increase intraocular pressure.

5. Regardless of the strength, punishment can cause some individuals to become extremely fearful, and this fear can generalize to other contexts. Some punishments may not cause physical harm and may not seem severe, but they can cause the animal to become fearful, and this fear may generalize to other contexts. For instance, some dogs on which the citronella or electronic collar are used with a preceding tone may react fearfully to alarm clocks, smoke detectors, or egg timers.

6. Punishment can facilitate or even cause aggressive behavior. Punishment has been shown to increase the likelihood of aggressive behavior in many species. Animals in which the punishment does not immediately suppress the behavior may escalate in their efforts to avoid the punishment to the point where they become aggressive. Those who already show aggressive behavior may exhibit more intense and injurious aggressive behaviors.

7. Punishment can suppress behaviors, including those behaviors that warn that a bite may occur. When used effectively, punishment can suppress the behavior of fearful or aggressive animals, but it may not change the association underlying the behavior. Thus, it may not address the underlying problem. For instance, if the animal is aggressive due to fear, then the use of force to stop the fearful reactions will make the dog more fearful while at the same time suppressing or masking the outward signs of fear. Once it can no longer suppress its fear, the animal may suddenly act with heightened aggression and with fewer warning signs of impending aggression. In other words, it may now attack with no warning.
8. Punishment can lead to a bad association. Regardless of the strength of the
punishment, punishment can cause animals to develop a negative association with the person implementing it or the environment in which the punishment is used. For instance, when punishment is used for training dogs to come when called, the dogs may learn to come at a trot or walk (or cower while approaching) rather than returning to the owners at a fast run as if they enjoy returning to their owners. Or when punishment is used during obedience competition training or agility training for competitions, dogs may perform the exercises with lack of enthusiasm. This negative association is particularly clear when the dog immediately becomes energetic once the exercise is over and it is allowed to play.
Pets are not the only ones who can develop a negative association from this process. Owners may develop a negative association, too. When owners use punishment, they are often angry, thus the expression of force is reinforcing to them because it temporarily decreases their anger. They may develop a habit of frequently becoming angry with their pet because it “misbehaves” in spite of their punishment. This may damage the bond with their pet.
9. Punishment does not teach more appropriate behaviors. One of the most important problems with punishment is that it does not address the fact that the undesirable behavior occurs because it has been reinforced- either intentionally or unintentionally. The owner may punish the bad behavior some of the time, while inadvertently reinforcing the bad behavior at other times. From the dog’s view, the owner is inconsistent and unpredictably forceful or coercive. These characteristics can hinder the pet/human bond. A more appropriate approach to problem solving is to focus on reinforcing a more appropriate behavior. Owners should determine what’s reinforcing the undesirable behavior, remove that reinforcement, and reinforce an alternate appropriate behavior instead. This leads to a better understanding of why animals behave as they do and leads to a better relationship with the animal.

What is Leptospirosis?

Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease that affects humans and animals. It is caused by bacteria of the genus Leptospira. In humans and pets it causes a wide range of symptoms, and some infected persons may have no symptoms at all. Symptoms of leptospirosis include high fever, severe headache, chills, muscle aches, and vomiting, and may include jaundice (yellow skin and eyes), red eyes, abdominal pain, diarrhea, or a rash. If the disease is not treated, the patient could develop kidney damage, meningitis (inflammation of the membrane around the brain and spinal cord), liver failure, and respiratory distress. In rare cases death occurs. Many of these symptoms can be mistaken for other diseases. Leptospirosis is confirmed by laboratory testing of a blood or urine sample.

How do people get leptospirosis?

Outbreaks of leptospirosis are usually caused by exposure to water contaminated with the urine of infected animals. Many different kinds of animals carry the bacterium; they may become sick but sometimes have no symptoms. Leptospira organisms have been found in cattle, pigs, horses, dogs, rodents, and wild animals. Humans become infected through contact with water, food, or soil containing urine from these infected animals. This may happen by swallowing contaminated food or water or through skin contact, especially with mucosal surfaces, such as the eyes or nose, or with broken skin. The disease is not known to be spread from person to person.

How long is it between the time of exposure and when people become sick?

The time between a person’s exposure to a contaminated source and becoming sick is 2 days to 4 weeks. Illness usually begins abruptly with fever and other symptoms. Leptospirosis may occur in two phases; after the first phase, with fever, chills, headache, muscle aches, vomiting, or diarrhea, the patient may recover for a time but become ill again. If a second phase occurs, it is more severe; the person may have kidney or liver failure or meningitis. This phase is also called Weil’s disease. The illness lasts from a few days to 3 weeks or longer. Without treatment, recovery may take several months.

Where is leptospirosis found?

Leptospirosis occurs worldwide but is most common in temperate or tropical climates. It is an occupational hazard for many people who work outdoors or with animals, for example, farmers, sewer workers, veterinarians, fish workers, dairy farmers, or military personnel. It is a recreational hazard for campers or those who participate in outdoor sports in contaminated areas and has been associated with swimming, wading, and whitewater rafting in contaminated lakes and rivers. The incidence is also increasing among urban children and pets.

How is leptospirosis treated?

Leptospirosis is treated with antibiotics, such as doxycycline or penicillin, which should be given early in the course of the disease. Other drugs may be more effective in treating the carrier state. Intravenous antibiotics may be required for patients with more severe symptoms. Persons with symptoms suggestive of leptospirosis should contact a health care provider.

Can leptospirosis be prevented?

The risk of acquiring leptospirosis can be greatly reduced by not swimming or wading in water that might be contaminated with animal urine. Protective clothing or footwear should be worn by those exposed to contaminated water or soil because of their job or recreational activities.

How can my pet be protected from Leptospirosis?

This disease was previously thought of as only a “farm dog” disease as it was most prevalent in rural pets that had close contact with livestock and feed storage areas that harbored rodents. Now more cases are seen in suburban pets than in rural pets! Homes are built in areas that raccoons and other wildlife exist. These animals frequently try to find a free meal left out for an outdoor dog or cat and wind up contaminating with Leptospira bacteria the environment by urinating in areas that pets will have contact. Dogs that are at risk for contact with such animals should be vaccinated with a “4-way” Leptospirosis vaccine. Using the older “2-way” lepto vaccine does not prevent the more common species of Leptospirosis disease currently seen in veterinary practise. There is currently no vaccine for cats. It is extremely uncommon for cats to develop disease, though it is unkown the percent of subclinically infected cats that exist. However, cats can be experimentally infected with Leptospirosis bacteria and have been shown to be chronic carriers of such infections. Keep pets away from wildlife such as raccoons, armadillos, opossums, voles, wolfes, foxes, deer, and skunks, as well as from rodents.

Cat Scratch Disease (Bartonella henselae Infection)

What is cat scratch disease?

Cat scratch disease (CSD) is a bacterial disease in people caused by Bartonella henselae. (Remember Ted Nugent’s Cat Scratch Fever hit from the 70’s?) Most of the over 22,000 people infected each year with CSD have been bitten or scratched by a cat and developed a mild infection at the point of injury. Over 2,000 people/year are infected and require hospitalization. Lymph nodes, especially those around the head, neck, and upper limbs, become swollen. Additionally, a person with CSD may experience fever, headache, fatigue, and a poor appetite. Children may develop an infectious mononucleosis like syndrome. Rare complications of B. henselae infection are bacillary angiomatosis and Parinaud’s oculoglandular syndrome. Antibiotics can shorten the clinical course of the CSD, which usually lasts 6 to 8 weeks if untreated.

Can my cat transmit Bartonella henselae to me?

Sometimes, yes, cats can spread B. henselae to people. Most people get CSD from cat bites and scratches. Kittens are more likely to be infected and to pass the bacterium to people. About 40% of cats carry B. henselae at some time in their lives. Cats that carry B. henselae may not show any signs of illness; therefore, you cannot tell which cats can spread the disease to you. People with immunocompromised conditions, such as those undergoing immunosuppressive treatments for cancer, organ transplant patients, and people with HIV/AIDS, are more likely than others to have severe complications of CSD. However, more people with healthy immunes systems are infected with Bartonella sp. than immunosuppressed ones. Although B. henselae has been found in fleas and ticks, so far there is no evidence that a bite from an infected flea or tick can give you CSD.

How can I reduce my risk of getting cat scratch disease from my cat?

Avoid “rough play” with cats, especially kittens. This includes any activity that may lead to cat scratches and bites. Wash cat bites and scratches immediately and thoroughly with running water and soap. Do not allow cats to lick open wounds that you may have.

Control fleas and ticks 100%, which means all in-contact pets are put on effective control products such as Revolution or Frontline Plus monthly treatment and preventatives. If the pet’s environment is visibly infested then applying insect growth regulators (IGR) with active ingredients such as Precor or Nylar will help the problem in a quicker fashion. Most of the IGR’s are available in combination with adult flea and tick killers. Be sure to read instructions carefully and keep your cats out of the area until all products have dried.

If you develop an infection with pus and pronounced swelling where you were scratched or bitten by a cat, or develop symptoms, including fever, headache, swollen lymph nodes, and fatigue, contact your physician.
How do I know if my cat is infected?

While many cats do not have outward signs of disease, clinical signs can include chronic gum disease (gingivitis), upper respiratory disease (rhinitis and sinusitis), eye infections (conjunctivitis), chronic vomiting and diarrhea, as well as enlarged lymph nodes and fevers of unknown origin. Your veterinarian can test your cat by sending a drop of blood to the National Veterinary Laboratory. A Western Blot (FeBart) test will determine if your cat has been exposed to Bartonella bacteria. If your cat is strongly positive your veterinarian may prescribe the antibiotic azithromycin for 3 weeks. How do I know if the therapy was successful? A comparative titration test should be run on you cats’ blood 6 months after the end of therapy to determine the antibodies have been significantly decreased, which signifies the elimination of the Bartonella organisms.

For more information on the web: www.natvetlab.com

Lymphocytic Choriomeningitis Virus (LCMV) and Pregnancy: Facts and Prevention

What is LCMV and how is it spread?

Lymphocytic choriomeningitis virus (LCMV) is carried by wild mice. Laboratory rodents and pet rodents, such as hamsters and guinea pigs, can become infected with LCMV from contact with wild mice. This can happen in a breeding facility, in a laboratory facility, in a pet store, or in the home (e.g., if wild mice are present).
Humans can become infected with LCMV through contact with urine, blood, saliva, droppings, or nesting materials of infected rodents. This could occur, for example, through a break in the skin or a bite from an infected rodent. Infection can also be spread by inhaling dust or droplets containing LCMV, such as while sweeping infected rodent droppings. A pregnant woman who becomes infected with LCMV can pass the infection to her unborn baby. LCMV infection can also be spread to patients who receive an organ transplant from an infected donor. However, spread of LCMV infection from one person to another is not known to occur outside these situations (1).
About 5% of adults have a positive blood test that shows they were infected with LCMV at some time in their lives (2, 3). Some people with normal immune systems have no symptoms during LCMV infection. Others have a mild illness with symptoms such as headache, fever, chills, and muscle aches. Sometimes, meningitis (inflammation around the brain and spinal cord) will occur.
What are the risks of LCMV infection during pregnancy?

If you have an LCMV infection during your pregnancy, your unborn baby can also become infected. LCMV infection during pregnancy can result in loss of the pregnancy. Infants who are infected with LCMV before they are born can have severe birth defects. It is not known how often this happens because pregnant women with LCMV infection might have only mild symptoms or no symptoms at all, and babies often are not tested for the infection (4, 5). Since LCMV infection was first identified, more than 50 babies have been reported with LCMV infection worldwide (6, 7).
How can I prevent becoming infected with LCMV?

In general, the risk of LCMV infection is low. If you are pregnant or planning to become pregnant, you should avoid contact with rodents, including pets such as hamsters and guinea pigs, and rodent droppings whenever possible. Following these instructions can reduce the risk of LCMV infection:
If you suspect there are mice in your home, call a professional pest control company to control them or have another member of the household remove them. Avoid vacuuming or sweeping rodent urine, droppings, or nesting materials.
Ask a friend or family member who does not live with you to care for pet rodents in his or her home while you are pregnant. If this is not possible, keep the pet rodent in a separate part of the home and have another family member or friend care for the pet and clean its cage. Avoid being in the same room where the rodent is kept.
If you have contact with a wild rodent or its urine, droppings, or nesting materials, thoroughly wash your hands afterward.
Further guidance on preventing LCMV infection, including management and prevention of rodents in the home, is available at:www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvrd/spb/mnpages/dispages/lcmv.htm and
www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvrd/spb/mnpages/dispages/lcmv/prevent.pdf

Is there treatment for LCMV infection during pregnancy?

Currently, there is no specific treatment available for LCMV infection. Pregnant women who have LCMV infection should talk with their doctors about how to manage their symptoms and how the infection might affect the outcome of their pregnancy.
If you are pregnant and have come in contact with a rodent, or have fever or other symptoms during your pregnancy, contact your doctor. A blood test is available to detect current or previous LCMV infection. Having had LCMV infection in the past is not a risk for current or future pregnancies.

HELPFUL HINTS

Prevent or stop begging!Avoid getting your pet into the habit of begging by always placing all treats in their food bowl. This helps to reinforce in their minds that any food they receive will be found in that place. Only give a treat when your pet is sitting or laying down, never when they are up and jumping!

Get your pet accustomed to riding in the car: Start off with short trips and gradually work up to longer ones. This will also relieve some of the anxiety pets feel on the way to Veterinarian’s office by teaching them that car rides don’t always mean a trip to the doctor! Note: It is a good idea, especially with very young animals, to plan the ride a few hours after their last meal to avoid upset stomachs! Young animals should not spend any long amounts of time outside until they are fully vaccinated:

Playtime can be for learning: New experiences can be created for puppies by erecting barriers, tunnels, etc. This is an excellent way to give quality play time and exercise to a virtually housebound animal, as well as helping to stimulate mental growth and development. Give your pet a treat when he successfully completes a barrier or tunnel.The basic “come” command should always be irrestible for your pet: When disciplining your pet, NEVER call him to you to be punished: Get up and go over to him. He will be much more willing to respond to the “come”command if he associates it with affection, treats, or a trip in the car. “Punishment” should be only given at the moment a pet makes a mistake. Any corrections made “after the fact” are not likely to take hold and will only cause anxiety which may make for more mistakes. Give many more praises for the good behavior your pets shows than focusing only on corrections.

Pets should not be given any type of cloth toys, articles of clothing or shoes to play with: It very difficult for them to distinguish between these “toys” and actual articles of the family’s. Use rawhides or rubber puppy toys instead. Never play aggressive or “equal basis” games with your pet, especially a dominant puppy.
Even during play time, it should be made clear to your pet that you are the pack leader at all times.
It is possible to have lots of fun with your pet without losing your image as the authority figure. Avoid playing fighting, tug-of-war, etc. Toss a toy or tennis ball for them to retrieve. To help your pet adjust to his or her den or crate, use a rag or blanket to play with your pet on, and then use it for the bedding. This playing on the rug will help the pet to associate it with good feelings and pleasant activities.

“NOTHING IN LIFE IS FREE”
If your dog does not literally look to you for all its’ needs, he wants you to read and understand the following:

The exercises described below are the foundation for regaining your pet’s control and its total reliance on your supplying all of its needs. The goal here is to control your dog’s behavior and not to incite aggression or anxiety.

The first step is to find a food that your dog loves, something really attractive! We recommend small bits of cheese or cooked meat without spices or fat; or “milk-bone” type rewards broken into smaller pieces.

Give your dog a small piece of food when starting the training exercise so it knows what the rewards will be during the training session (do not start training sessions immediately after meals since we want to use the dog’s hunger as a motivation). Let your dog smell the food, and then tell the dog to sit. Keep saying, “sit” until they do it. Use a calm voice and stay still so as not to distract your pet’s attention from your eyes, not the food treat. Eventually your pet will sit, immediately when it does say “good dog” and give the food treat.
If your dog jumps up to get the reward close your hand so it does not get the treat. Immediately ask your dog to sit. Only reward your dog when it stays still and you bring the food to them.

Sometimes the dog will be sitting but be very anxious, it may only be watching where the food is and not your face. To correct, place the food behind your back in a cup or baggie. Get the dog to look at you and listen to your voice. Always reward an adoring gaze and a relaxed posture by your pet! If your pet is too “hyper” or is holding its ears back in anxiety or tension stop the session and try again when your dog is calmer.

It won’t take long for your dog to learn that sitting (or laying down) is what gets the reward and that getting up does not. What you should be rewarding is a relaxed frame of mind and attention, not just the act of sitting- make this your goal. The dog should always look to you for cues as what to do and not to look for the reward! In this training session “sit” means sit, look at me, relax, and wait for my cue to you. Also link the giving of the treat with saying “good dog”.

Through these exercises you and all family members are establishing voice control over the dog. It also teaches them that you are in control of all situations. If at any time your dog cannot do the next step, break the step into 2 or 3 smaller steps. Call us if your pet has particular problems for advice.

**** Remember, if your dog thinks it is dominant, you must make it sit still and watch your face before: you let it or take it outside, before you feed it, and before you play with it. Your pet should not be allowed to “guard” choice locations such as the couch, recliner, bed, etc. It is only allowed to be near these locations when you ask it to for very short time periods and only after it has realized that literally, “nothing in life is free”!

Our goal is to allow your pet to learn that when it pays close attention to you it’s needs are satisfied and that you and your family are the “leaders of its’ pack” and it trusts you to be in control.

Pet owner: take time to go through these steps, they should note all be performed during the first few training sessions so as to keep your pet’s attention. You can figure that 2 training sessions per day of 15-20 minutes duration is needed to “retrain” your pets’ mind while avoiding loss of concentration. Whenever it appears that your pet is starting to be distracted have it perform an easy and quick “sit” then reward it and end the session on a “good note”.

*******Your dog’s tasks: ********
1. Sit while you step back 3 steps and return.
2. Sit while you take 3 steps to the right and return.
3. Sit while you take 3 steps to the left and return.
4. Sit still for 10 seconds.

5. Sit while you walk a quarter way around the dog.

6. Sit while you walk around the opposite direction.

7. Sit while you walk halfway around the dog.
8. Sit while you walk 5 steps backwards then return.

9. Sit while you “jog” 5 steps to the left then return.

10. Sit quiet for 10 seconds.

11. Sit for 20 seconds.

12. Sit for 10 seconds.

13. Sit while you take 10 steps briskly back and toward the dog.

14. Sit while you walk 10 steps to the right, then to the left.

15. Sit while you walk around the dog.

16. Sit while you slowly walk out of view then immediately return.

17. Sit while you leave the room for 5 seconds then return.

18. Sit while you walk 10 steps to the right, then briskly walk an equal distance to the left then return.

19. Sit quiet for 10 seconds.

20. Sit for 5 seconds.

21. Sit for 10 seconds.

22. Sit while to circle the dog.

23. Sit while you leave the room for 10 seconds.

24. Sit while you back up 10 feet, you sit down for 5 seconds, then return to the dog.

25. Sit while you walk to the front door then return.

26. Sit while you walk 10 feet from the dog, then circle the dog and return.

27. Sit while you repeat the above step at brisk pace.

28. Sit while you circle the dog at a brisk pace.

29. Sit while you circle the dog twice.

30. Sit for 10 seconds.

31. Sit while you leave the room for 10 seconds.

32. Sit for 5 seconds.

33. Sit while you circle the dog at 10 feet at a jog.

34. Sit while you walk across the room, sit on a chair for 15 seconds, then return.

35. Sit while you walk briskly 20 feet to the right, then left.
36. Sit for 5 seconds.

37. Sit for 10 seconds.

38. Sit for 60 seconds.

39. Sit for 30 seconds while you sit 5 feet away.

40. Sit while you go to the door and ring doorbell.

41. Sit for 10 seconds.

42. Sit for 60 seconds.

43. Sit while you walk to the door and knock on it twice then return.

44. Sit while you rattle doorknob, then return to dog.

45. Sit while you open door then close it, then return.

46. Sit while you open door, say “hello” then return.

47. Sit while you open door & talk to imaginary person, return.

**** Repeat entire set of procedures in a different location, for example, where the dog would be sitting when visitors enter.

****Repeat the tasks, but reward with treats after every 3rd or 4th task, still praise after every task.

SIBLING RIVALRY

Sibling rivalry is the term used to describe situations in, which 2 dogs (siblings or not), living in the same household fight repeatedly. These fights may start out with snarling and growling, but usually progress to vicious, prolonged fights if steps are not taken to correct the problem. The dogs are usually both males, and many are littermates.

The fighting occurs because the dogs are not allowed to establish a dominance hierarchy or “pecking order”. In the wild, an individual dog occupies a strictly defined position within the pack. No 2 dogs share the same level of dominance, so in any confrontation the more submissive pack member will defer to the more dominant one. Some dogs have a strong drive to establish dominance, and will constantly challenge more dominant animals to fight. The winner of the fight moves up the dominance ladder with respect to the loser. Very dominant dogs do not fight with very submissive dogs, because the submissive animal defer to them. Fights only occur between dogs of nearly equal dominance.

Fighting often starts in situations in the wild dog pack; the social status would normally change. For example, fighting may begin when a younger dog reaches puberty, and his drive for dominance is activated. Problems may also occur when an older pet gets sick, and is unable to maintain his position with respect to the younger animal.

Problems arise in human households when the family pets are not allowed to establish a dominance hierarchy. This occurs because the human members of the family intervene by punishing the winner (the dog who should be dominant) and comforting the loser. Unfortunately, in doing so, the submissive dog’s social status is elevated, and that of the dominant dog is lowered. The dog’s dominance levels remain nearly equal, ensuring that fighting to establish a stable dominance hierarchy continues. The fighting will only end when a social order is established, with one dog clearly dominant and the other one submissive.

The fights are usually triggered by competition for something the dominant dog takes as his right, but which the other dog refuses to give up. Many dogs coexist happily until the owner comes home, but then fight for the owner’s attention. Often, the owner’s presence makes the submissive dog more confident and willing to challenge the other dog’s position. The dogs may also fight over valued resources like food, toys or sleeping area.

Treatment of sibling rivalry: You should discuss your pets’ specific history with your veterinarian before attempting any treatment, as some interventions can cause some pets to exhibit worse behavior if the cause is misdiagnosed and/or your pets’ responces are not monitored. This could include your pet reacting in an unexpected manner and causing serious physical damage to you, your family, or other pets. The following information is of general nature only to inform pet owners how some cases are treated.

Do not follow any of the suggestions below without a specific behavioral diagnosis and behavioral modification “prescription” from your family veterinarian!

The 1st step in treating sibling rivalry is to determine which of the dogs is dominant. This decision should be based on the age, sex, size, health, tenacity, and behavior of the dogs. Young puppies are seldom dominant, but may challenge an older dog for dominance when they reach puberty. Often the dog that is consistently the aggressor is more dominant.

Because the fighting can be serious, it is important not to stimulate aggression between the dogs. For this reason, toys and food should be removed. One may leave the dogs alone together while they are away, because without food, toys, or your presence, there is little to stimulate fighting. If the dogs do fight in one’s presence one must reassure the aggressor and reprimand (or do “time out”) the submissive dog. One’s praise (of the naturally dominant dog) will make the dog more dominant, which will contribute to the rapid establishment of a stable social structure.

**It is vitally important that the dogs both recognize the human members of the family as dominant members of their pack. If a pet owner has trouble with either of the dogs growling or snapping at them, resisting grooming or nail trimming, or other signs of dominance, these problems will have to be treated before one attempts to establish a dominance hierarchy for the dogs.

Once a pet owner has determined which dog will be dominant, everything the owner does should reinforce that animal’s status. The dominant dog should be fed, exercised, praised and given attention before the other dog. Initially, it may be wise to ignore the submissive animal, while paying a great deal of attention to the other dog, until the dominant animal is secure with his status. If this causes aggression, one may try caging or tying up the submissive dog so that people can interact freely with the dominant dog, in front of the submissive dog, without causing a fight. One must continue to recognize the dominance status, once it has been established, by always dealing with the dominant dog 1st.

A pet owner should set up situations in that the person pets and praises the dominant dog, and allows the submissive dog to watch from a safe distance. It may be necessary to start dominance training in the park or some other neutral territory. Once dominance has been established on neutral territory, one can repeat the training at home.

Castration of both dogs is rarely helpful, but neutering only one dog is useless. If the above training is not successful, it is possible for one’s veterinarian to prescribe a temporary course of medication for the submissive and/or dominant dog. This may alter the relationship between the dogs enough to make dominance training proceed more smoothly.

We realize that it is extremely distressing to have dogfights in ones’ home. However, sibling rivalry is one of the easier problems to solve if caught very early, once one realizes that dogs do not expect to live as equals, and that both dogs will be happier and more secure with a stable social order. We are here to help pet owners in whatever way we can. Working together, we are sure we can treat this unwanted behavior and that people and their pets dogs will have many problem- free years together.

This information is provided with permission by the courtesy of Dr N. Dodman, Tufts University and Drs D. McKeown & U. Leuscher, Ontario Veterinary College, Canada.

HOUSEBREAKING PROCEDURES FOR PUPS

UNDERSTANDING PUP “BATHROOM” BEHAVIOR:

Most pup “accidents” come from poor communication between owner and pet. As pups, they do not instinctively know the difference between outside and indoors for going to the bathroom. Left to themselves, they will pick a spot away from their eating/sleeping area to urinate/defecate and return to that area by its’ scent. Most homes are big enough that if a pup is left to roam it will find a “workable” location(s) and soon begin soiling the house. Confining to one room often fails because the pup establishes a “den” area for feeding and sleeping with all other areas fair game for eliminations. Problems arise for modern pups- whose “parents” are gone for long hours. They will only learn where not to go if “caught in the act” and shown where it is proper to go; even if “caught” a minute or two later may be too late! If punished when you get home, they will only learn to fear the circumstances of your arrival with punishment. This is why some people think that after several nights of punishment upon their arrival home their pup acts “guilty” when subsequently greeting them; the pup is actually putting two and two together and anticipating a punishment! We can help you solve or prevent this common problem, all it takes is your time, effort, and patience! The following suggestions on crate training are not meant as a permanent lifestyle for your pet, rather they are means to safely surviving the first few months of puppyhood!

THE RULES:
1. Anytime you cannot physically watch your pup it must be confined to a crate.(See crate instructions later)
2. The pup must be taken on a leash to the same spot outdoors it used last time and every time to go to the bathroom.
3. Paper training should be avoided; most pups take longer to learn both inside the house on papers and outdoors are o.k. than if solely trained for outdoor duties.
4. THE PUP MUST BE TAKEN OUT FIRST THING EVERY MORNING, NOT 5 MINUTES LATER; THIS INCLUDES SAT. AND SUN. MORNINGS!
5. THE PUP MUST BE TAKEN OUT LAST THING BEFORE GOING TO BED.
6. THE PUP MUST BE TAKEN OUT WITHIN 5 MINUTES AFTER EACH MEAL.
7. THE PUP MUST BE TAKEN OUT AFTER A DRINK OF WATER OR PLAY.
8. THE PUP MUST BE TAKEN OUT WHEN WAKING FROM A NAP.
9. THE PUP SHOULD ALWAYS RECEIVE PRAISE EVERY TIME IT GOES TO THE BATHROOM OUTSIDE.
10. When you are home you must keep your pup within eyesight. Prevent it from roaming the house without your watching it.
11. If you catch it making a mistake immediately take it outside and when it finishes eliminating praise it!
12. Expect 2-3 months time before it consistently will do the right thing on its own.

CRATE INSTRUCTIONS:
Since we know pups sleep most of the daytime when no one is home, confinement to a crate for training purposes is not inhumane if done correctly. This is why they have so much energy when we come home in the evening! With correct introduction, pups will enjoy their crate time and associate it with a safe and secure place when they eat and sleep without worry of predators, just as they use a den in nature. An added benefit to crate training is control of destructive and dangerous chewing. That habit likewise needs correction during the actual act; keeping them away from furniture and electric cords saves their lives in more than one way! All pups will chew; it is a natural act that cannot be stopped. Only by showing them proper things to chew will chew control ever work. This means when you catch them chewing on an inappropriate object immediately remove it from their mouth and give a chew toy instead and praise it for chewing the toy! We have very bitter “anti-chewing” sprays that can be used on specific objects to help in training. Relying on the crate to safeguard your furniture is the best option. Crate training also allows you to bring their “den” with them on vacations and prevents accidents from happening.

INTRODUCTION OF THE CRATE:

1. Feed your pup in the crate with the door open. Do not disturb or distract your pup while it is eating and learning to experience being in the crate.
2. After it has eaten confidently with the door open for a few meals, quietly close the door while it eats.
3. Once you are sure the pup is confident eating in the crate, try placing him in it at non-feeding times for a few minutes with a safe chew toy, gradually increasing the time in the crate. Never let the pup out when it is crying or barking. Only let it out when it has been quiet for at least one minute. This is critical so it will not associate acting “bad” with being let out of the crate! You may use pieces of dry puppy food as reward for being in and around the crate when it is quiet. CAUTION: Never give your pet a treat when it is begging; it should learn that it ONLY gets a treat whenever it is sitting or laying down and is quietly adoring you!
4. Time in the crate should be gradually increased; of course pups less than 3 months can only “hold it” for a few hours while pups older than 6 months can often go 6-8 hours if given the chance to eliminate before going into crate. How many times you feed your pup depends on its age and size - ask the veterinarian for advice. Specific and consistent “meal times” will help you anticipate your pups’ elimination needs as well as keep their teeth cleaner as opposed to “free choice” feeding.
5. Never feed table scraps unless it is “safe” and is mixed in well with the puppy food. Do not feed anything in between meals except pieces of puppy food for training purposes. If your pup has not finished his measured amount of food within 15 minutes take the bowl up. Eventually the appetite will develop and your pup will eat more consistently; if it does not then you may be feeding too much or illness could be present. Healthy pups will instinctively eat to meet their energy requirements, so do not give in to your pup and create a finicky begging monster!
6. It always saves money to feed an exactly measured amount of premium puppy growth food, since they are much more digestible 1/4 to 1/3 less food is needed per meal as compared to grocery store foods; this makes for smaller stools to “hold” inside the pup and if accidents occur, clean up will be much easier! We recommend diets such as Eukanuba, Science Diet, Iams, or ProPlan Puppy food; the slightly higher cost per bag is more than made up for since you will feed less - each bag lasts much longer and stool problems will be easier to control! Large breed pups should be fed food specifically formulated for large breeds to help prevent hip and elbow dysplasia and obesity.
7. Once your pups’ growth slows down you will need to change over to an adult maintenance diet. Mother Nature has designed the eating habits of your pup to gorge on food whenever possible. Since food is usually scarce in the wild and it takes much energy to hunt it down, wild pups never get obese. We are the greatest hunters on earth in the minds of our pets! We are responsible that they get plenty of daily exercise and get measured amounts of food. Otherwise obesity sets in and is an all too common problem for house pups

OUR VOCATION IS HELPING PETS LIVE LONG AND HEALTHY LIVES SO PLEASE CONTACT US ANYTIME YOUR PET NEEDS SOME FRIENDLY ADVICE!

Planning and preparation are necessary when traveling with family pets. Consider whether your pet is comfortable when traveling. Some animals, like some people, function better in familiar surroundings. A carsick animal can make a trip miserable for everyone! Some ill or physically impaired dogs and cats cannot withstand the rigors of travel. If this is the case, discuss options such as using a reliable pet-sitter or a clean, well-managed boarding facility with your veterinarian.
Find out in advance if you pet is welcome in hotels, motels, parks, and campgrounds. Always check whether pets are allowed or kennel facilities are available. If the pet must be left alone in a hotel room, place a “Do Not Disturb” sign on the door and inform the maid and the front desk. Consider bringing along a portable kennel for use in hotel rooms or the homes of friends or relatives who are not comfortable with your pet loose when no one is home.
A few general tips apply whether you travel by car or plane. Be sure your pet is properly identified with a current tag and/or a microchip. Grooming (bathing, combing, trimming nails) before a trip, plus having its favorite food, toy(s), and dishes available will make your pet more comfortable. Have both proof of rabies vaccination and a current health certificate with you when crossing state or international borders.
Before undertaking any trip, consult your veterinarian to be sure that all required vaccinations are up-to-date and to receive a health certificate within ten days of travel.
Travel by Air
Air travel is of most concern to pet owners. The airlines sometimes update their regulations on pet travel including restrictions on breeds and size. Check with your airline well in advance for their current regulations. Many of the major airlines now allow cats and dogs less than 15 pounds to travel in pet-designed carry-on luggage that will fit under the seat. Federal regulations require that pets be at least 8 weeks old and weaned at least 5 days before flying. Always try to book a nonstop, midweek flight and avoid plane changes whenever possible. During warm weather periods, choose early morning or late evening flights. In colder months, choose midday flights. Do not be shy about insisting that an addendum  accompanies the required health certificate when traveling by air. Reconfirm your flight arrangements the day before you leave to ensure there have been no unexpected flight changes. Arrive at the airport early, exercise your pet, personally place it in its crate, and pick up the animal promptly upon arrival at your destination. When boarding the plane, let the flight attendant know that your pet is in the cargo hold.
Transport crates, available from most airlines or pet shops, must:
Be large enough to allow the animal to stand (without touching the top of the cage), turn around, and lie down.
Be strong and free of interior protrusions, with handle or grips.
Have a leak proof bottom that is covered with plenty of absorbent material.
Be appropriately and clearly labeled. Include your name, home address; home phone number, and destination contact information, as well as a designation of Live Animals, with arrows indicating the crate’s upright position. In addition, carry your pet’s photo and health information with you on the plane for easy identification in the event the cage label is lost.
Be ventilated on opposite sides with exterior rims and knobs so that airflow is not impeded.
Before leaving on your trip, take the time to accustom your pet to the crate in which he will be traveling.
Ask your veterinarian for specific feeding instructions. For your pet’s comfort, air travel on an almost empty stomach is usually recommended. The age and size of your pet, time and distance of the flight, and your pet’s regular dietary routine will be considered when feeding recommendations are made. It is recommended that you not give tranquilizers to your pet when traveling by air unless it has not had time to become accustomed to the crate and is very anxious.
Travel by Car
If your pet is not accustomed to car travel, take it for a few short rides before your trip so it will feel confident that a car outing does not necessarily mean a trip to the veterinarian or an unpleasant destination. Cats should always be confined to a cage or in a cat carrier to allow them to feel secure and prevent them from crawling under your feet while you are driving.
A dog that must ride in a truck bed should be confined in a protective kennel that is fastened to the truck bed. Dogs riding in a car should not ride in the passenger seat if it is equipped with an airbag. Your dog should be in a secure harness or sturdy carrier to avoid injury should you make a sudden turn or stop. Pet harnesses attach to the seatbelt and safely keep your dog in one place. Accustom your dog to a seatbelt harness by attaching a leash and taking your dog for short walks while wearing it. Offer your dog a treat and praise at the end of the walk to associate a positive experience with wearing the harness.
Stick to your regular feeding routine and give the main meal at the end of the day or when you reach your destination. Feeding dry food will be more convenient, assuming your pet readily consumes it. Dispose of unused canned food unless it can be refrigerated. Take along a plastic jug of cold water in case other reliable water sources are not available. Give small portions of food and water and plan to stop every two hours for exercise. Remember to include a leash with your pet’s traveling supplies. If your dog is has a problem with carsickness, your veterinarian can prescribe medication that will help the dog feel comfortable during a long car trip.
Pets should not be allowed to ride with their heads outside car windows. Particles of dirt or other debris can enter the eyes, ears, and nose, causing injury or infection. If you must leave your pet in a parked car, don’t leave him for more than 5 minutes without checking on him or her. Be sure to lock all doors, park in a shady area, and open windows wide enough to provide ventilation without enabling your pet to jump out or get its head caught. Well-trained dogs have been known to panic and chew up valuable upholstery when panicked by being left alone in a car! Be aware of weather conditions. You should never leave your pet in a parked car when the temperature and/or humidity are high or when temperatures are near or below freezing.
Camping With Pets
Travel to country settings with your pet presents its own challenges. Skunks, raccoons, porcupines, snakes, and other wildlife can bite or otherwise injure your pet. Keep your pet on a leash. Be considerate of other campers. Be sure to ask your veterinarian about flea, tick and heartworm prevention before you leave.
Additional Pet Travel and Health Tips
When traveling by car, pack a simple pet first-aid kit that includes assorted bandages, antiseptic cream, Benadryl tablets or liquid, an antidiarrheal medication that is safe for pets (ask your veterinarian to suggest a product and dosages), gauze squares, and the phone numbers of your veterinarian, a national poison control hotline, and a 24-hour emergency veterinary hospital
In addition to a standard identification tag (which should be labeled with your name, home address and phone number), your pet’s collar should include a travel tag with information on where you are staying while away from home. Should your pet become lost, this will allow you to be contacted locally.
Perform a daily “health check” on your pet when away from home. In unfamiliar surroundings, your pet’s appetite, energy, and disposition may change. Watch for unusual discharges from the nose and eyes, excessive scratching or biting of any body part, fleas or ticks, abnormal elimination, or excessive water consumption. Visit a local veterinarian if you are concerned about any physical or behavioral changes.

West Nile Virus has arrived in Georgia, after arriving in New York in 1999. It was 1^st identified in Uganda in 1937. It is a mosquito-transmitted disease that can cause flu-like symptoms in people and rarely, can cause a fatal swelling of the brain (encephalitis) in people, horses, and birds. People-people or animal-people transmission does not appear to be a factor in this disease. Signs of the disease include fever, depression, incoordination, muscle weakness or spasms, seizures or paralysis.

Experts report that less than 1% of mosquitoes carry this virus, and when infected, less than 1% of people will die of the disease. Fortunately for dogs and cats, rarely have any been found to have developed clinical disease at all after being infected in the U.S. The few that have had clinical disease and exposure to the virus had compromised immune systems. About 8% of dogs in the New York area of the 1st outbreak were found to have been exposed and had developed antibodies against the virus, though none developed any illness.

Precautions for all to take against this disease are to remove breeding areas for mosquitoes: standing water in old cans, rain gutters, discarded tires, drip areas of air conditioners, birdbaths and pet water bowls. Replacing birdbath water at least weekly and cleaning/refilling pet water bowls daily should minimize mosquitoes.

For people: Avoid the outdoors @ dawn/dusk; use DEET containing repellents with less than 30% DEET; in children use <10%; avoid use in infants.

For pets: Do NOT use DEET products on pets! If you want to minimize contact with mosquitos keep dogs and cats indoors during dawn and dusk; The ONLY SAFE AND EFFECTIVE repellent is FRESHLY applied pyrethrin 0.15% applied ONE to TWO TIMES DAILY. It comes in sprays or wipe-on gels. We carry “Pet Guard” gel, which is meant for ear tips and other small areas that the pet cannot lick off. Pyrethrins’ disadvantage in the spray form is the strong odor it has, which definitely breaks down the human-animal bond! Spot-on products such as FrontlinePlus, Advantage, and over the counter permethrin or phenothrin spot-ons will kill mosquitoes but cannot repel all mosquitoes on the frequency they are labeled for (once a month.) Clinical studies on permethrin products show incomplete mosquito repellency for 1-2 weeks after application. Fortunately, it does NOT seem to matter that products have marginal mosquito repellence, as pets are known to be highly resistant to the virus!

WHAT NOT TO DO:
DO NOT use permethrin or DEET containing products on cats, they are very toxic to cats! DEET can also be toxic to dogs as well.

DO NOT use over the counter products “off-label” i.e., more frequent or higher dosage.
Do not waste your time (or the look of your pets’ fur) by applying SkinSo Soft. It has been clinically tested to repel fleas for only 1-3 hours on cats; however, no mosquito repellency or safety trials have been conducted on pets. Do not use over the counter so called holistic or natural remedies (other than natural pyrethrin products) as they have not had independent safety studies performed.

Zoonsis is the term used to describe infections that are transmitted from animals to humans. Hookworms and roundworms are commonly found in the southeast in pets and in unfortunate humans.
Hookworms
Cats and dogs contract hookworms by ingesting infected larvae in the soil. They can also get certain hookworms through nursing their mother, and from the placenta in unborn puppies.
Hookworms attach to an animal’s intestinal lining and suck its blood potentially causing: diarrhea, anemia, weight loss, weakness and death.
Hookworm eggs pass from an animal’s body through its feces and hatch into larvae.
Humans may pick up the larvae when walking barefoot on infected soil, (this is one reason dogs are banned from public beaches) potentially causing:
Lesion-like markings under the skin (cutaneous larva migrans) sometimes called Plumbers itch. Damage to vital internal organs from swelling (visceral larva migrans) causing painful bloating, cramping, and blockages in the digestive system (eosinophilic enteritis).
An estimated 20% of the world’s human population is infected with hookworms.
Roundworms are the most common intestinal parasite of dogs, having an estimated prevalence of 25% to 75%.
Lifecycle: Eggs hatch into larvae in an animal’s small intestine after being ingested. Puppies and kittens also contract these through nursing their mother and puppies through the placenta before birth. The larva migrate to the liver, then the lungs and are coughed up and swallowed. The larvae mature into adults in the small intestine. Larva cause a pot-bellied appearance and poor growth in puppies. Adult roundworms pass out of an animal in its feces. Adult female roundworms can produce up to 100,000 eggs a day.
In the United States there are an estimated 10,000 cases of human roundworm infections each year. These infections may cause: Damage to vital internal organs from swelling (visceral larva migrans). Inflammation and/or scarring to the retina, producing permanent partial blindness (ocular larva migrans)
Treatment
Human treatment involves antiparasitic drugs, usually in combination with anti-inflammatory drugs. Ocular larva migrans require greater measures to lessen eye damage.
Prevention
Clean your dogs’ living area often and properly dispose of your pets’ feces.
Have your pets regularly checked by your veterinarian for the presence of worms.
Keep your dog on a monthly oral preventive medication all year. These treat and control zoonotic parasites, such as hookworms and roundworms, as well as heartworms. HeartGard Plus, Interceptor, and Sentinel are the best products to use for zoonosis control! Avoid going barefoot where dogs and cats may have defecated, especially sandy soils. Wash you and your childrens’ hands before eating, especially when camping or at the beach and public parks.

Separation anxiety may be diagnosed if your pet shows excessive inappetance, drooling, destruction of objects, howling, barking, or “accidents” of urine or stool within 15-30 minutes of your leaving your home or otherwise leaving them alone (or for some poor pets just your leaving the room) and that they do not show these behaviors while you are in their presence. Please note; contrary to popular opinion, pets are not acting out of spite when they have accidents during such panic attacks, they are exhibiting signs of great inner stress and should never be punished for such behavior! Doing so would only likely make your pet even more anxious and more likely to repeat the behavior! A physical exam, +/- lab tests and history can be helpful in finding other underlying problems as well as serving as a baseline if anti-anxiety medications are to be used. Behavior modification exercises will need to be done to help achieve a safe, predictable, and more independent life for these pets.

All pets, especially anxious dogs, must learn that they must sit and wait calmly for anything they want, whether it is love, food, walks, treats, petting, or just going outside. There must be no exceptions to this rule!

GENERAL RULES ARE:
1) Never try to “calm” or “reassure” a pet right before leaving it alone since this will reinforce its’ anxious behavior! In fact, “calming” an anxious pet is actually rewarding its’ nervousness in its’ mind!
2) Even more importantly, when you return home avoid eye contact and avoid “fussing over” your pet until it is acting very calm and quiet. Then at a later time you may “fuss over it” when it has calmed down and thereby you are rewarding “calmness”. Remember to be soothing; a quiet voice and slow petting or rubbing is better than fast “pats”.
3) Try to figure what your pet is cueing in on that tells it you are leaving, such as picking up car/house keys, brief case, turning off computer/tv/stereo, etc. These actions can “tell” a pet that you are about to leave. Try doing these tasks way ahead of the time when you must leave so your pet cannot predict as well when you are about to leave (and thereby getting its’ insides worked up)! If you notice signs of impending anxiety (panting inappropriately, heart rate increased, pacing or constantly watching your every move, or excessively self-grooming) leave as soon as possible (do not try to calm) so as not to prolong the anxiousness.

4) Give your pet something to distract that it has learned is fun and comforting (such as a rawhide or “booda bone”) before it ever has a chance to become anxious before your departure.

Teaching your pet to sit patiently and calmly for everything they want will be of great help! Of course, this should be practiced during calm periods. We may also prescribe anti-anxiety or anti-panic medicines as help for tough cases but these are done on a case-by-case basis. Please call for a consultation appointment to discuss any specific problems your pet may be encountering.